Fabrics

The essential decision to make before anything else is what kind of material will it be ? : synthetic or natural? As beautiful as it can be, synthetic material encourages perspiration. Nothing is better, for a special outfit, than natural fibres such as silk, linen, cotton that “breathe” - all the better since appropriate treatments will prevent them from creasing. Be aware that if you opt for silk, which is very often the case, a big, floaty, gossamer dress should be cut in heavy natural silk whereas a sheath should be in muslin or Organza. Be aware, too –as if we needed to tell you - that the price depends greatly on the quality and preciousness of the fabric.

Fashion has less impact on wedding dresses, as you will follow your own feelings when choosing the dress that matches your personality but as styles, materials and colours might vary according to the seasons, themes of the wedding, material such as Dupion silk or duchess satin will never cease to be fashionable.

It is after all quite straight forward. Of all, silk has stayed the most popular choice through the decades. Silk can be spun into thread of various thicknesses and woven into fabric of different weights and appearance. From silk are produced many variations: some staying with the essence of elegant simplicity in a sober plain style, others adding embroidery or intricate lace; some lighter, some heavier, according to the style of the dress; for instance a heavier weight fabric such as duchess satin will hang better and will be less prone to creasing whence a light weight fabric such as crepe de Chine will drape well in its fluidity.

Silk is a soft fabric with a shining gloss and as well as being one of the finest textiles, it can also be very hard wearing. Luxurious, it drapes and tailors very well.

Various processes and weaving methods have produced diverse types of silk, each one being unique. Those different types can also be combined in one style for a better effect. You will no doubt recognise the following kinds of silk in the make of wedding dresses.

· Brocade is a rich heavier exquisite fabric whose intricate weaving forms a raised design, usually created with gold or silver threads on a satin weave background. For example the ideal choice of fabric for a typical eighteenth-century gown will be a brocade or damask for the skirt and bodice as shown in our illustration of a stunning gown designed by Anna Cristina, with a brocade pattern bodice.

· Charmeuse is a well-liked lightweight soft fabric, which drapes beautifully. It is very smooth and has a semi-lustrous satin finish on one side and a dull finish on the other side. Body and drape are excellent for dresses.

· Chiffon is a fine extremely sheer plain woven silk with a dull finish and a soft drape. It is a very lightweight airy feminine fabric but very strong and which is often layered as very transparent as shown by the photo of this elegant flowing medieval style gown with a chiffon overlay and long poet sleeves in the same chiffon. Veils will very often be made of chiffon.

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· China silk is a typical silk type in the sense that it is extremely soft and lightweight but very hard wearing at the same time.

Caroline Parkes 'Dragonfly' in Georgette Silk

· Georgette crepe silk. You might wander why such a name. Well the simple explanation lies behind the influence of Madame Georgette who was a fashionable French dressmaker during the last century. It is a sheer lightweight fabric, with some body and firmness. It is slightly heavier than chiffon but softer and less transparent. It has a fine hardly noticeable crepe surface with a matt finish and the twisted crepe fibres from which georgette is made of give the fabric a stretchy property that “makes it seen to move on its own”. This material wears very well and can produce a very elegant look.

· Mousseline de Soie, silk muslin is a plain-weave lightweight sheer fabric not unlike chiffon although the process of sizing used on this material gives silk muslin a beautiful crisp texture.

· Organza is also a plain thin weave sheer lightweight crisp fabric but its stiffness in this case unlike muslin comes from natural substances held in the fibres. Unusually it can also be used for veils.

Silk Satin Organza - is a marvellous light version of organza with a satin finish and a fullness and suppleness unmet in other similar silk satins. Although it is more costly, its qualities make it well worth the higher price. Zibeline or organzine satiné is another name used in the fashion design world for this material.

· Peau de Soie from the French literally means “skin of silk”. This is a soft heavy twill ribbed drapeable satin-weave fabric of very good quality. It shows a grainy appearance a dull lustre finish that has proven to be more enhancing on most body shapes and sizes than high lustre satins. . This finely corded silk can be used on both sides and drapes splendidly.

· Shantung taking his name from a province of China where it was imported to Britain in the 19th century, this type of raw silk presents an uneven surface, rough and heavier with irregular knots thorough the fabric. Its quality is variable. It has a tendency to crease but its glimmering texture will not fail to draw everyone’s attention.

· Taffeta is a plain-weave light fabric from a Persian origin, with a shining surface and is characterised by its very fine grain and its rustling sound. This lustrous stylish fabric has a crisp and rigid texture, which is often used for full flared skirts. This was demonstrated by Lady Diana Spencer who opted for a full-blown romantic style ivory silk taffeta wedding dress when she married Prince Charles, dress that influenced hugely brides to be and designers for the years to come.

· Thai Silk a smooth even fabric that works well with dresses that need a firm hold to give and maintain a solid structure as it has a rigid papery touch. It is nonetheless a fabric that hangs very well as shows our illustration of this stunning Edwardian drape.